Let’s not pretend that this post exists for any reason other than as an excuse to post some pics, k?
Our time in Positano and Amalfi was full of ferry rides, breakfasts on our terrace, drinks served with breathtaking views, beach-side lounging, and lemon sorbet served in an actual lemon. More or less what everyone else’s vacations in the Amalfi Coast are like, sooo I’ll skip the details on all of that and just give you two highlights.
For reasons I can’t really explain, we decided to do the very un-loungy, un-glamorous thing of walking up 1750 steps from Positano to Nocelle. I guess it was for the views — I become a little irrational when it comes to a good view. And keep in mind, you have to walk to the starting point of these steps…so ya know, it’s possible you arrive to the starting point winded. Not saying that’s what happened, just saying — it’s possible. There is a much longer 4-5hr hike you can do there called the Path of the Gods, but we aren’t crazy — or Gods — so we opted for this one: the path for mortals who don’t really know 1750 steps look like or feel like and consistently overestimate their fitness level.
BUT, the views….oh the views. And aside from views, we walked along olive trees, prickly pear cacti, colorful gardens, cats, a really loud rooster, and a herd of goats. That’s a lot of visual stimuli. When we finally got to the top and took a break, we came across this old Italian gentlemen sitting on a bench. I’m off taking pictures, and in true form, when I return S is in the middle of a conversation with this guy. Only thing is the man doesn’t speak English. And S doesn’t speak Italian…or at least, not that I’m aware of. But somehow they are conversing and S is both comprehending him and responding back in broken Italian. It was bizarre.
Before we left, I asked the old man if I could take his photo. That much I can muster in italiano. He immediately said yes and then straightened up and extended his left hand upward and outward. At first I thought he was pointing to something or to S…but then no, that was just his pose. I have no idea what he’s doing. I really hope it’s not something offensive…
After that craziness, we went to Da Adolfo for lunch and lounging. This restaurant has a reputation far and wide – so much so that it is notoriously difficult to get a reservation. It’s not a fancy joint mind you, it’s just a shack on a tiny beach, but it is known for having the freshest and tastiest seafood. We called many, many times over several days and no one ever answered the phone, which I’ve read is a common experience. Our hotel manager, however, happened to have the direct number to the owner and was able to secure a reservation for us. A lady we met on the boat to Da Adolfo told us she tried calling over 50 times and never got an answer, and then casually told a security guard at the wharf that she really wanted to eat there. He made a call to someone right then and there, hung up, and told here the date and time of her newly confirmed reservation.
30 minutes before your reservation, you’re to stand at the wharf and wait for a small boat with a red wooden fish on it. Once the boat arrives, the captain will ask if you have a reservation, and all those who thought they could just show up, take the boat, and try to walk-in for lunch, will be turned away. It’s actually kinda sad. Once the captain approves, however, you get on the little boat and take a 5min ride to this tiny spit of a beach where Da Adolfo is. You have lunch – and I can attest – it was delicious and we ate like champs considering we just walked up and down 1750 steps (and had to haul a bit to even make this reservation). And then you lounge all day until the boat with the red fish starts taking people back.
It was such a random and delicious experience.